The Double Maltese Cross

Lesson III

The Double Maltese Cross

As already mentioned, once you understand the basics, all others patterns are easy to execute. They are but combinations of the basic motifs.



The sketch above is just a cluster of four Maltese Cross motifs linked together at the center by a Single Diamond.

For the sake of discussion,let us call this motif the Double Maltese Cross.

There is no need for step-by-step instructions for this motif.

So, how do you decide where to turn and where just to follow the lines?
We have already discussed corners and intersections in lesson II Part I.
Now here is what you do –
When you reach a corner – turn
When you reach an intersection – use it to reach the next square or in this case the next Maltese Cross





Now the filling or the interlacing –

When you reach a corner – go around it.
When you reach an intersection – turn and move on to the next square or in this case, the next Maltese Cross.





The pictures above show the starting and finishing of the Double Maltese Cross.
Kutchwork – An Introduction
Lesson I Part I
Lesson I Part II
Lesson II Part I
Lesson II Part II
Lesson III
Lesson IV

Drawn Thread Embroidery

This pattern is from TH.De. Dillmont's Encyclopedia of Needlework.
Done seven years back - my first attempt at Drawn Thread Embroidery.




This is one of my unfinished projects. I cut the wrong thread accidentally and it has been lying around for atleast five years now. Any ideas for salvaging this will be welcome.

Kutchwork Tutorial - Maltese Cross Interlacing

Lesson II Part II
Make sure the Foundation or skeleton has been laid correctly before starting the interlacing.
I have named the lines formed by the interlacing only for discussion sake.




Bring the needle up between 1 and 24.



Pass the needle
Under 24 over line A
Under line K (line L1 formed) over 23
Under 22 (around corner) over line over L
Under L1
Under B (line K1 formed) over K (interlacing the intersection)
Only half of square I has been interlaced. We now move from square I to square II through square V

Under E (line B2 formed) over B (interlacing the intersection)
Under D (line E1 formed) over 9
Under 8 (around corner) over E
Under E1



Under C (line D1 formed) over 7
Under 6 (around corner) over D
Under D1
Under B (line C1 formed) over 5
Under 4 (corner) over C
Under C1 over E1
Under E over B (interlacing the intersection)



Interlacing of square II is complete. We’ll move on to square III through square V

Under B1
Under H (line E2 formed) over E (interlacing the intersection)Under G (line H1 formed) over 15
Under 14 (around corner) over H
Under H1
Under F (line G1 formed) over 13
Under 12 (around corner) over G
Under G1
Under E (line F1 formed) over 11
Under 10 (around corner) over F
Under F1 (line E3 formed) over H1
Under H over E (interlacing the intersection)



Interlacing of square III is complete. We’ll move on to square IV through square V

Under E2
Under K over H (interlacing the intersection)

Under J (line K3 formed) over 21
Under 20 (around corner) over K
Under K1
Under I (line J1 formed) over 19
Under18 (around corner) over J
Under J1
Under K (line I1 formed) over 17
Under 16 (around corner) over I



Under I1 (line H3 formed) over K3
Under K over H (interlacing the intersection)

Interlacing of square IV is complete. We’ll move back to square I through square V.



Under H2 over B2 (interlacing the intersection)
Under B over K (we complete interlacing all intersection)

interlacing of square V complete
Under K1
Under A (line B3 formed) over 3
Under 2 (around corner) over B



Under B1 over L1
Under L over 1 (reached the lower left corner where the interlacing began)





The wrong side of fabric after completing the Maltese Cross.

The interlacing, like the skeleton or the foundation always ends at the starting point.


Points to remember:
1. Except at the starting point and at the end, the needle does not pierce the fabric - it only passes under or over previously laid thread.
2.Observe the lines in GroupA and Group B listed below.

Group A
A=I=1
A1 = I1 = 2
K1 = K3 = 3
K=4
K2 = 5
E2 = 6
E=7
E1= E3 = 8
C1 = G1 = 9
C=G=10

Similarly,

Group B
L=D=1
L1=D1=2
B1=B3=3
B=4
B2=5
H2= 6
H=7
H1=H3=8
F1=J1=9
F=J=10

In this motif, we can thus count upto 10 parallel lines in any direction.
The lines in the Group A are all Perpendicular to the lines in Group B

The odd numbered lines in Group A are under even numbered lines in group B
and even numbered lines in Group A are over odd numbered lines in group B.

From here on, if you have clearly understood the instructions, Kutchwork is very simple because we merely move from square to square building up on the Maltese Cross.
All patterns are but variations of the Maltese Cross and the Basic Diamond or combinations of both.

If my instructions are more confusing than instructive, I would like to know.

Kutchwork – An Introduction
Lesson I Part I
Lesson I Part II
Lesson II Part I
Lesson II Part II
Lesson III
Lesson IV

Kutchwork Tutoria - The Maltese Crossl

LESSON II PART I
When I tried to save the lessons, I found, I could'nt. Some pictures could be saved and some could'nt be. It took me a while to find out what format when uploaded displayed the pictures in a saved file. I hope I have figured it out right.

The Maltese Cross – Laying the Foundation

This is a slightly more complicated than the basic diamond.
Transfer the pattern to fabric.



For the sake of discussion and understanding, we’ll name the squares I, II, III, IV and V.


We’ll refer to "L" as corners and "+" as Cross-overs or intersections.






The lines,
1-2 = A
3-4 = B
5-6 = C
7-8 = D
9-10 = E
11-12 = F
13-14 = G
15-16 = H
17-18 = I
19-20 = J
21-22= K
23-24= L

The sketches are smudged. They looked good on paper. Scanning does highlight all the drawbacks.
Letus now proceed with the embroidery.

Bring the needle
Up at 1,
down at 2 and up at 3 (corner)

We will now move from square I to square II through square V




down at 4 (line B over line A) and up at 5 (corner)
down at 6 (line C over line B)and up at 7 (corner)
down at 8 (line D over line C) and up at 9 (corner)
(line E over line D)
Pass the needle under line B Point to rem
down at 10 and up at 11 (corner)



We move from square II to square III through square V

down at 12 (line F over line E) and up at 13 (corner)
down at 14 (line G over line F)and up at 15 (corner)
(line H over line G)
Pass the needle under line E
down at 16 and up at 17 (corner)



We will move from square III to Box IV through square V

down at 18(line I over line H) and up at19 (corner)
down at 20 (line J over line I)and up at 21 (corner)
(line H over line J)
Pass the needle under line H and over B



We move from square IV back to square I through square V
Down at 22 and up at 23 (corner)

Finishing



(line L over line K)
pass the needle under line A (line A over line L)
down at 24





The skeleton or the foundation for the Maltese Cross is complete.
Once laying the foundation for the Maltese Cross is mastered, we are ready to move on to interlacing the foundation.

Points to remember:
1.The foundation starts at the lower left corner of square A and ends in the same place
2.Square V is the junction we use to move from one square to the next.
3.Check that the criss-crossings at the intersections have been done correctly before moving on to filling


Note:
1. While is alright to start the skeleton in any corner, to avoid confusion always start at the lower left corner.
2. If you are brave enough to start at any corner go right ahead just make sure you have understood the concept of the unders and overs.

Kutchwork – An Introduction
Lesson I Part I
Lesson I Part II
Lesson II Part I
Lesson II Part II
Lesson III
Lesson IV

Split Ring Tatting

I am still working on Kutchwork Lesson II. Should be ready tomorrow.

I made a bookmark in split ring tatting. It is a Jane Eborall pattern




Here is an interesting link on Celtic Tatting

Lesson I Part I
The First lesson in Kutchwork

Use a frame for the embroidery. The fabric should not be stretched tightly - it will lead to pluckering of embroidery when the frame is removed. The fabric should not sag within the frame either.

Mastering the Basic Diamond

Lines A, B, C and D form the basic square or diamond depending on how it is drawn.



Points 1 and 2 are extensions of the line A at the two ends of line A.
Points 3 and 4 are extensions of the line A at the two ends of line B.
Points 5 and 6 are extensions of the line A at the two ends of line C.
Points 7 and 8 are extensions of the line A at the two ends of line D.

Bring the needle up at 1
Take it down at 2

Bring it up at 3
Take it down at 4



Up at 5
Down at 6

Up at 7
At this point, pass the needle under line A and down at 8.

The skeleton or the foundation for the basic diamond is now complete.







The pictures show pictorial representation and the Basic Diamondworked on fabric.

Did you notice that…

One end of A is over D and the other under B
One end of B is over A and the other under C
One end of C is over B and the other under D
One end of D is over C and the other under A

Understanding this alternating sequence of overs and unders is the secret behind successful working of Kutchwork.

It is essential to understand and master this concept before proceeding to the next step.

Lesson I Part II


The next step is filling or interlacing the foundation or the skeleton.

Note: I will be using the terms filling and interlacing interchangeably. So too the terms foundation and skeleton.

Bring the needle up between 1 and 8 as in the picture.



Pass the needle
over 1 and under D
over B and under 2 = Line A1 is formed
over 3 and under A = goes around corner.




Over C and under 4 = Line B1 formed
Over 5 and under B = goes around the next corner.


Over B1

Over D and under 6 = Line C1 is formed
Over 7 and under C = goes around the next corner



Over C1 and under A1
Over A and under 8 = back to the starting point wherein the needle is inserted back into the fabric.

Points to remember:
1. Except at the starting point and at the end, the needle is only passed under or over previously laid thread.
2. You can count upto 4 parallel lines in any direction in this motif. Observe that if the odd numbered threads are under line A, then the even numbered threads are over line A and vice versa. The same is true for lines B, C and D also.

This again is a very important step. It should be perfected before moving on to the Maltese Cross.

Kutchwork – An Introduction
Lesson I Part I
Lesson I Part II
Lesson II Part I
Lesson II Part II
Lesson III
Lesson IV

Kasuti tutorial

I have finally posted lesson No:1 in Kasuti Tutorial ...Basic instructions and charts. Since I just completed charting out all the designs for the tutorial, I am yet to work on the sampler.

I will be grateful if you could point out errors if any. I would also like to know when intructions are more confusing than instructive. I am counting on you guys out there.